Grgich Hills Chardonnay

At the 1976 Paris tasting that upended the wine world, the Chardonnay that beat the assembled white Burgundies was the 1973 Chateau Montelena — made by Miljenko "Mike" Grgich. He founded Grgich Hills Estate in Rutherford the following year with Austin Hills, and the house has made Chardonnay in a deliberately restrained style ever since. Buying this bottle is buying a direct line to the single most consequential event in Californian wine history, still run by the same family.

Lean, by Napa standards — this is the restrained end of Californian Chardonnay. Grgich Hills uses native yeast fermentation, older and neutral oak rather than lots of new barrels, and keeps malolactic conversion limited, so you get citrus, green apple, wet stone and a firm mineral acidity rather than the popcorn-and-cream profile the region is known for. If you want the opposite pole of that argument, Rombauer Vineyards Chardonnay Carneros ($49.99) is unapologetically the rich version, and tasting the two side by side is the clearest possible illustration of the Napa Chardonnay debate.

Yes. Grgich Hills has farmed all of its estate vineyards organically since 2003 and is certified biodynamic, which is unusual at this scale in Napa. Whether that changes what is in the glass is a matter of ongoing and fairly heated debate; what is not in dispute is that it is a genuine, long-standing commitment rather than recent marketing.

Around 50–55°F — cool but not ice cold, because over-chilling suppresses the aromatics that this style is built on. Pull it from the fridge fifteen minutes before pouring. It does not need decanting, but it does open noticeably in the glass over the first half hour, so pour a small measure first and come back to it.

Its acidity makes it far more food-flexible than a heavily oaked Chardonnay. Oysters and raw shellfish work, which is not true of most Napa Chardonnay. So do roast chicken, grilled halibut, crab, risotto, and hard cheeses like comté or aged gouda. It also handles lemon and herbs well, where a buttery Chardonnay would clash. Our summer white wine guide covers how to choose between the styles.

Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay ($55.09) sits between Grgich and Rombauer stylistically and is the sensible third bottle for a Napa Chardonnay comparison. For a leaner Sonoma alternative at a lower price, Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay ($24.99) is the everyday option. Browse the full Chardonnay collection, the white wine collection, or the wider wine collection.