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There is a specific week every year — usually the third week of August — when the highball stops working. The drink is the same. The bourbon is the same. But the evening has cooled by eight degrees, the light goes orange at seven instead...

Here is a situation that plays out in a lot of kitchens around this time of year. Somebody buys a good bottle of rye. They make a Manhattan. It is fine — flat, a bit sour, thinner than the one they had in a bar...